This is a good one. Leave out anything you don't have (although the fish sauce makes it taste just like take-out).
1 tablespoon dried shrimp (optional)
1/2 pound fresh shrimp, chicken, or pork
10 to 12 ounces 1/4-inch wide dry rice noodles (banh pho, sen jann, or rice sticks)
2 tablespoons corn or peanut oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 medium shallots, sliced in thin rings
1/4 pound firm tofu, sliced into 1/4-inch strips
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon Asian chili paste, or to taste
3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
2 tablespoons fish sauce
juice of 1 lime
1/3 cup chopped dry-roasted unsalted peanuts
1 cup bean sprouts
1 egg, beaten, fried, and finely sliced
1/2 cup chopped scallions
1 extra lime, cut into wedges (for serving)
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup shredded fresh mint
1. Soak the dried shrimp, if using, in cold water for 20 minutes. Drain them and chop them finely. If using fresh shrimp, shell and devein them; or cut the chicken or pork along the grain into small strips. Soak the rice noodles in warm water for at least 15 minutes.
2. In a wok, cast-iron skillet, or large nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When it is hot (but not smoking) add the garlic, shallots, and dried shrimp all at once. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is just golden-brown and shallots are beginning to caramelize.
3. Push garlic mixture to one side of the pan. Raise the heat to high and add the tofu. Cook it until it is lightly browned.
4. Push the tofu to one side of the pan. Add the fresh shrimp, chicken, or pork. Stir-fry, mixing everything in the pan together, just until the meat is opaque.
5. Drain the noodles.
6. Push everything in the pan to one side (if the pan seems dry, add another teaspoon of oil). Add the noodles and stir-fry, gradually working in the other ingredients in the pan.
7. Clear a small space in the center of the noodles and add the tomato and chili pastes. Gradually incorporate them into noodles until evenly distributed; the noodles should be tinted red.
8. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Clear a small space in the pan and add the sugar. Toss the noodles briefly.
9. Add the fish sauce and lime juice. Stir-fry, mixing thoroughly and scraping the pan with a spatula. You may need to cut through noodles with the spatula. Taste the mixture. It should be evenly balanced with salt, sweet, and sour tastes. Fish sauce helps cut through a heavy lime taste. But if you have added plenty of lime and fish sauce and the flavors still don't come alive, try adding more sugar, 1 teaspoon at a time.
10. Add the peanuts and bean sprouts, toss briefly, and remove from heat.
11. Scatter the egg and scallions over the noodles. Garnish with wedges of lime, cilantro, and mint. Serve at once.
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